The Viaduct - better to be a customer than an inmate
The Viaduct Tavern is an amazing pub right down the street from the plump Golden Boy of Pye Corner. It has Fuller’s ales on pull, and is quite popular with the city folk, particularly those working in the law courts. Originally built during 1870s, and remodeled at the turn of the 19th c, it was known to house an opium den upstairs, and was a prosperous gin joint in its Victorian heyday. Inside there is a triptych of paintings echoing the statues found on the Holborn Viaduct bridge, a 5 minute walk down the road. The paintings in the pub and the statues on the bridge represent different facets of the Victorian era: agriculture, commerce, science, and the fine arts. Imperialism was suspiciously left out. One of the paintings has a rip in it, which was either the result of a bullet wound or a bayonet from a WW1 solder. The gilded glass work and mirrors are spectacularly well cared for, and the bar with its dark woods is just awesome. The beers on offer are those of Fullers, including their range of bitters (if getting an ale go for the ESB if available). Beyond that your staple continental range (Guinness…) is offered. Having just walked past their today, I would recommend also to go for the Fuller’s Porter is available. I have yet to do a review for that, but it is wonderful.
The Viaduct Tavern, London UK
The second cool part about this place is the basement. Built on top of the former Newgate prison (a prison from 1188-1902 where the Central Criminal Courts now reside – also known as the Old Bailey), you can go downstairs with a courteous request to a staff member to check out the cells (now used as part of the beer cellar) that once housed the debtors and other criminals thrown into the hold of Newgate. As the prisons were privately run by unscrupulous gaolers, people had to pay for their food while in jail (this being while locked in a room with no running water or toilet AND up to 20 men where the stench was so bad it could ‘have choked a horse’). If you didn’t or couldn’t pay, then the unfortunate souls incarcerated there might be lucky enough to be dropped some food from street level where there was a pipe leading down to the from the basement cell. These enterprising gaolers also could charge for such luxuries as taking off irons and the entrance to the prison itself. Check out the Proceedings of the Old Bailey for ‘largest body of texts detailing the lives of non-elite people ever published, containing 197,745 criminal trials held at London’s central criminal court’.
For a local flare for my fellow Philadelphians, William Penn (the city’s founder) was once incarcerated at Newgate.
The Old Bailey - it behoves you to visit the tavern across the road, and stay outof here as best you can...
For the best opportunity to see the pub, try an off-peak time so you can fully appreciate the place for its Victorian grandeur. Grab a bitter, and raise a cheers to lady justice.
Open MF 11:00-23:00 (closed SA-SU)
Yard's Thomas Jefferson Tavern Ale - warning may incite revolutionary thoughts.
(8% American make from 12 oz/355 ml bottle) Continuing with the Ales of the Revolution series, Yard’s Brewery offers up another great one. This ale’s recipe is a fine contribution from none other than Thomas Jefferson, the third president of the US and the principal author of the Declaration of Independence (ratified at Independence Hall in Philadelphia as shown in my review of Washington’s Porter). Amongst many other things, he was a man of great thoughts: his political philosophy upheld the separation of church and state, propelled the Virgina Statute for Religious Freedom, and founded the University of Virginia. JFK spoke this when welcoming 49 Nobel Peace prize winners to the White House, citing:
I think this is the most extraordinary collection of talent and of human knowledge that has ever been gathered together at the White House – with the possible exception of when Thomas Jefferson dined alone.
He was a political leader in the Revolutionary War, the country’s first Secretary of State, then its second Vice President, ending up as the third President (leading during the seldom discussed First Barbary War which I had no recollection of ever being taught about). Peace in the newly formed US was short-lived with Britain though, as events unfolded that led to another war with Great Britain, the largely sea based War of 1812.
It was this second war with Britain that aided his development of a brew house on the grounds of his Monticello estate. In seeking to brew beer as his wife Martha had done for him some 40 years prior, Jefferson applied the knowledge of a friend named Joseph Miller, a Briton who was stranded in America due to their respective nations waging war. After initially procuring malt from his neighbour, Jefferson began malting his own grain, first using wheat and then corn. Within a few short years, he had developed a recipe for great ale that was well respected, so much so that other prominent figures such as James Madison had servants trained in Jefferson’s brew house. Being the polymath he was, this type of applied science he revelled in, and which we can be thankful was recorded.
The recipe to this fine is one which he used at his Monticello estate, and one can only imagine throwing a few of these back with dinner along with the cider he also brewed. It is a copper-colored ale with a slight white head that leaves a dusting around the rim. The nose was that of sweet molasses, roasted malts, and alcohol. The taste brings notes of mild roasted malts and dry hops for a well-balanced sweet, but also slightly dry, taste with a mild bubble and creaminess. All in all, a winner.
When speaking of mankind, Jefferson famously penned in the Declaration of Independence, that all men are created equal. However, as Yard’s has proven, not all ales are created equal. This is one which stands out to testify to this fact.
All ales are definitely not created equal! Mankind fine, but ales never!
(7% American make from 12 oz bottle) In a brilliant manoeuvre, the Yard’s Brewery Co. of Philadelphia partnered with the City Tavern to create Ales of the Revolution. The tavern placed host to many prominent players in the revolution, those thought to be traitors to crown, and albeit only lives on in a modern recreation its nice to known that the stories and recipes remain. These ales, which are based off recipes attributed to the Founding Fathers, seem like a match made in heaven for me. History? Beer? Could it get better?
And after tasting the George Washington Porter I would have to say I was not disappointed. This beer was enjoyed as a selection from another variety pack which I pick up on my sojourn back home, i.e. outside of Philadelphia.
This porter’s recipe is associated closely with the general of the revolutionary forces and America’s first president, none other than George Washington. This brew was made to keep some thirsty field officers satisfied, to which I am sure they could not complain. On the pour, it was a deep, dark and rich black with an off-white/mocha head. On the nose there was a delightful smell of sweet malts. The taste, which I am sure was the best part of any field officer’s day, was rich and warming with the notes of alcohol and sweet malts giving way to drying taste on the back-end, and slightly creamy throughout.
While home on a stroll through the city, I came across the namesake’s old stomping grounds.
Independence Hall - surely some porters had to have been enjoyed here. 'Declaration of a porter recipe? Let's stick with Independence for now...'
One can only imagine that tossing a few porters and ales back must have made the idea of standing up to the imperialist power of the Red Coats slightly less terrifying for the founding fathers. The morning after a long night out of planning and plotting a revolution must have been undoubtedly rough though.
Washington Square, Philadelphia. Simply well put.
Regardless, the porters and the revolution were a success. At Washington’s funeral it was said of him that he was, “first in war, first in peace, and first in the hearts of his countrymen”. Perhaps something in there about his porter would have been a little bit out-of-place, but if you give it a try I think you can appreciate his style.
Oysters? Stout? Jersey? Yes!
(7.5% American make from 1 pint 9.4oz bottle or 750 ml for those of you who understand metric units, crazy stuff I know – what the hell is 1 pint 9.4 oz as a unit of measurement anyway? Freedom? Anyway, enough snobbery, to the beer…!) Flying Fish Brewery, you are simply an amazing organization. This series, aptly titled the Exit Series, is named after different exits on the New Jersey Turnpike. As the cliché goes, when you meet someone from New Jersey, or one Jersey guy to another for example, the first thing asked is ‘What exit’? While this may make us plain people from Pennsylvania laugh, the great people over at Flying Fish decided to show some pride in their state, and rightly so. Yup, I said it – Jersey rise up. This is a stellar beer brought to fruition from a stellar idea – take pride in where you are from and celebrate its history.
And just to be on the safe side, I drank it with one of my best friends, coincidentally nicknamed Jersey. As he was only one of several thousand people to go to PSU from New Jersey, and so my roommate thought this rare enough of a feat to nickname his as such. Couple that with his seeming inability to remember names, Paul became ‘Jersey’, and a life long friend. He is also much more well-versed and researched in the world of beer, and this was a purchase of his on his visit to me while home.
Now for more background on the beer ands its namesake. Exit 1 is the last exit from New Jersey into the next state, that small wonder and state of my brother’s alma mater – Delaware (who have amongst others another terrific micro brewery by way of Dogfish Head, see my review for their terrific Squall IPA). If you take a look at the Exit 1 site it has some random facts and a little video about the beer and Bayshore oysters. One little fact that helps bring this story back on point, the area around Exit 1 has been a supplier of oysters since colonial times. And some of those same oysters made it into the boil in order to provide the beer with slight dryness to compliment the sweetness from the chocolate and roasted malts. Pretty simple process whereby they place some Delaware Bay oysters into a mesh sack, and let them be heated up in the boil. Producing…oyster stout!
Now, finally, to the taste. This gorgeous looking stout had a mocha head over a thick black body which shows well the English chocolate and roasted malts. The taste followed the smell, that of a creamy, heavy stout with subtle chocolate and roasted malts flavours with a slight sweetness and drying affect throughout. All told, a solid investment, and a job well done by Flying Fish.
I would have to recommend something else to be enjoyed alongside this delicious stout, the tunes of bunch guys from New Jersey called the Gaslight Anthem. Play it loud, and cheers to good times with friends and family to enjoy it all with.
Enjoyed at my Dad's poker table which is only fitting for my first IPA back home.
(6.9% American make from 12 oz bottle) The IPA style was a common one for me on my trip home this Christmas, with the Southern Tier IPA being my first purchase taken from a variety pack. The Southern Tier Brewery is named after its location in the state of New York, with the southern tier region being defined as that west of the Catskills with borders on the northern tier of Pennsylvania (my home state but miles away from where I am from). Upon gazing at the impressive variety of beers that they have to offer on their website, and the impressive growth of the organization after having only been founded 5 years ago, I would say that this is one to keep an eye on. The variety pack I purchased was for their pale ales, but looking at the others they have on their website I wish that my local distributor had more on offer from them.
As is the case (no pun intended) with the great state of Pennsylvania, beer distributors (not those zoned as restaurants for take away) can only sell beer in cases of 24 bottles (or 12 of the larger bottles – say a Chimay 750ml) as the smallest unit of purchase. So, going for the local variety pack is much recommended so as to get the most diversity, this compared to buying a whole case of one type of beer, and hell they are just more fun. This is a subject which I am going to research a bit more about, and write in an upcoming blog to cover the beers I bought at Wegman’s, which in a landmark case, won at the Pennsylvania State Supreme Court the right to sell beer on their premises. But more to come on that… now to the beer!
This pack in particular was decent, and overall I would say recommended though nothing that knocked my socks off. The IPA was copper colored with a faint white dusting. The taste was that of American hops – strong hops – with a dry, sweet taste and a consistent bubble. All in all, a pretty standard IPA which was crisp, hoppy, queching, and best served cold.
In the coming weeks, I am going to be posting about the wonderful variety of micro brewery beers I enjoyed over the holidays, and more about how bizarre the state of Pennsylvania is with its liquor laws. Also, I am looking to update this blog a bit, adding links to other interesting blogs like the Belgian Beer Odyssey (one man’s adventure to 1000 Belgian beers – Napolean was modest in comparison), amongst other treats.
Follow the instructions, and pour wisely! That monk on the front means business.
(7.5% Belgian make from a 330ml bottle) This Belgian triple from the family run Slaghmuylde Brouwerij (Brewery) (try saying that 3 times – hell try saying it once) was one of many stow aways from my last trip to Bruges. The body had a consistent bubble with a pale golden-yellow colour capped off with a fluffy white head. The smell was that of muted spice and citrus, not over-powering, but well presented. The taste was to follow true to form for a Belgian Triple – a spiced, citrus flavor, along with some slight dry fruity notes. It is a classic triple with a well-balanced taste which hides well the 7.5%, and if available would not disappoint for those who like their triples. This 7.5% is of course due to the triple fermentation process as well as tripling the malts, though the relatively low alcohol for a beer of its kind is a good entrance strength for a Belgian triple. Being on the lighter side of strength as triples can reach upwards of 10-11%, or even more, this would be a good one for those not looking to end up in a canal.
Now, the pour: if done correctly, the sediment will stay undisturbed at the bottom of the bottle, with a clear yellow Belgian triple colour coming out. If not, you will be drinking a murky, cloudy beer. The choice is yours – when pouring correctly just pour it slowly and in one full go. I did not, as I only read that afterwards, but it was still delicious and worth bringing back (along a few other treasures).
Cloudy with a chance of deliciousness.
The Bree Louise has 11 ales on gravity (kegs in jackets) and 5 on pull and more ciders than I would want to try in one night. Oh, also student and CAMRA discounts. The verdict - go if you want unique ales! Stay home if lame.
The Bree Louise is an ale lover’s dream come true: it has 11 real ales on gravity (meaning that they are held in the keg at the counter with a cooling jacket around them (if necessary), and the keg tapped right there ready for pour) and 5 on hand pump along with 8 or so ciders and perrys. It has the best variety of ales I have yet to come across so far in the city, as for this in and of itself the place earns itself 5 *s for its constant rotation of quality ales.
The ambience is relaxed, and is strictly speaking a pub. It is known to have a diverse crowd with its share of suits waiting for a train at Euston Station rubbing elbows with some real ale fans – the kind of guys you see at the festivals who know their ale. When I went, it was later on a Friday evening, and while a few of the kegs had been sold out already, there was still enough variety to keep me busy for a few rounds. And, shock of all shocks, a discount! They offer a 50p discount for any card-carrying CAMRA members and students (be sure to have the ID handy).
Overall, this pub is well worth seeking out if you are interested in a few unique, tasty ales with a nice discount available. Check out the link below for a map I am working on which will give the viewer not only the location but I hope a quick snapshot of the pub from my main article. This is a just a beginning, but I hope it will build into something perhaps useful!
Look at the winking cat - drink this ale!
(8.5% English make from 330 bottle) This charming strong ale (barley wine) comes in at a hefty 8.5%, but balances this strength beautifully with a robust flavor. Pouring a deep chestnut-brown with a light tan head along with a nice bubble, this great ale carries a nose of sweet roasted malts and a taste to match. This initial taste is complimented well with a late hit of warming alcohol, which the brewer describes as a port wine finish.
Not only is this an ale to appreciate, but the bottle is a keeper as well. It comes complete with a picture of Old Tom, the cat that was sketched in the brewers log alongside the recipe for this beer back in 1900.
A winking cat must always be trusted.
This is a highly regarded ale having won numerous awards over its lifetime, and was recently knighted the following four accolades by the World Beer Awards for 2009: Best Ale, Best Strong Dark Ale, Best Dark Ale, and Best Barley Wine. So get in line with the experts, and snag a bottle of this when you can.
Maybe it is beause I grew up with cats always in the house and have quite a soft spot for them, but this Old Tom has certainly won me over. Take one home for Christmas, and while you are at it, give a real cat a better home through sponsoring your own Old Tom.
Another of Samuel Smith's delicious beers: Strong Golden is true to form - both strong and golden in colour this barley wine delivers well, albeit in a tiny nearly impossible to acquire bottle.
(10.2% English make from 180 ml bottle) This little marvel was found at the Utobeer Shop (who also operate a pub called The Rake which I must soon visit!) at one of my favorite London markets: Borough Market. This city undoubtedly has a great beer heritage, and was part of the impetus for me to writing this blog. However, it is painfully devoid of bottle shops and a selection greater than that of an off licence or a chain supermarket. But such is life, and the reason why I check out every corner shop and market I enter for their beer selection. This is also why I try to collect what I can, when I can. But back to the important stuff, the beer!
This beer is a strong little diddy, coming in at 10.2% as a barley wine from the Tadcaster brewery of Samuel Smith’s, a bit of a favorite of mine in recent posts. The nose on this was of sweetened toffee/caramel and floral hop notes. The body was a clear copper/golden color with a fast disappearing white head. The taste was full of caramel and sweet malt, but not overly so, with a drying after taste, and a pleasant consistent bubble. For being as strong as it is, this is an enjoyable beer albeit a very difficult one to find! So, go down to Borough Market, grab one of these along with a Cumberland Sausage sandwich for good measure! Happy hunting!
The Rising Sun, a nice cozy Sam Smith pub in a brilliant little alley by St. Bart's is well worth a visit, and stay to check out the rest of the neighborhood.
The Rising Sun is a charming Victorian Pub with some original fittings tucked away in a small alley called Cloth Fair. It will be found right off the Smithfield Market in what is a bustling area of the City filled with pubs and eateries. It is a corner building with the one side facing the wonderful St. Bartholomew-the Great’s Church. This church is one of the best examples of Norman architecture in the City, and its entrance is through an archway under one of the last few remaining examples of Tudor buildings in the city.
Of note, St. Bart’s has just opened their Cloisters for lunch and on Wednesday stay open until 21:00. They have wine along with 2 Belgian breweries to choose from: Affligem and Achel. Well worth a visit to grab a good beer, and take a look at a brilliant piece of history.
The pub itself has been refurnished and fitted to a comfortable Victorian style with a back area offering darts, while the front parlor has a back row of booths with tables and chairs about the place. The beer is well-kept, and the spirit inside was moderate but lively on my visit. One chap sat by himself enjoying a pint buried in a book, while a group of business types chatted about and younger student looking people were playing darts. In the area of Smithfield, this is one of the few pubs that remains open on weekends, a definite plus if walking through the city and seeking a good cheap pint and some food.
I would recommend enjoying any of the full range of Samuel Smith’s beers: try the Wheat beer for a refreshing one, or maybe the Famous Taddy Porter if you are looking for something a little bit heartier.
In the area, besides St. Bart’s, there is also the William Wallace memorial stone (Smithfield Market is where he was dragged to from the Tower of London to be hung, drawn and quartered). Also there is the Golden Boy of Pie Corner where legend has the Great Fire ceased. One thing that can’t be missed is the grand Victorian meat market . The Smithfield market has been in use for roughly eight centuries, and is where Wat Tylor and the rest of the Peasant Revolt were put down after Ole Wat was stabbed to death by the Lord Mayor of London and one of King Richard II’s knights in 1381. Close by also is the Old Bailey which is built on the former site of Newgate Prison.
